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PRODUCT INFORMATION

Pipeline check valve (德國 SYR original imported, 3″)

Product Information

Pipeline check valve (德國 SYR original imported, 3″)

德國 is imported with original packaging, and 德國 process production and manufacturing double guarantee.

Intelligent control, free setting of rinse cycle, enjoy modern technology

Effectively remove large particles of impurities such as sediment, rust, colloid and scale in water

The water pressure can be adjusted, and the service life is several times that of the traditional pressure control

The filter bottle is improved with 德國 polymer material, the pressure can be up to 80KG

Siphon high-speed backwashing, let the water flow reversely wash, and clean the filter like a vacuum cleaner

At the same time, it solves the problem of decontamination of filter holes, filter surface and filter bottle wall

The usage situation can be observed at any time, and the filtering effect is clearly visible

Stainless steel filter material (AISI 316), extended filter life

Unique 360-degree design method, can be installed according to on-site environmental conditions

The body is made of brass (PN16), high strength and high pressure

The filter size is 50-500um, and a suitable filter can be installed according to the water source on site

The inlet/outlet is equipped with a pressure gauge, which is easy to observe the use of the filter screen (1.5” / 2”)

 

Technical teaching:

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The 德國 is an original import, and its manufacturing process ensures double assurance. Technical explanation.

What is a pre-filter? Think of it as a "gatekeeper for your water system."

Pre-filterIt refers to the first (or first few) filter cartridges/canisters installed before the main equipment: keeping "troublesome" things out, making the downstream equipment more durable, the consumables last longer, and the whole system more stable.
You can think of it as a "gatekeeper" for your water system—preventing sand, rust, and unpleasant smells from directly entering your core equipment (such as Reverse osmosis, Water softener, UV, and pressure motor).


Where should the pre-filter be installed? The 3 most common locations.

  1. Whole House Entry Management Office
    Water enters the house and first passes through a pre-filter before being distributed to the bathroom, laundry facilities, kitchen, and other areas throughout the house. This is often called a "whole-house pre-filter" or "main pipe pre-filter".
  2. Water purifier / Reverse osmosis (POU)
    Many RO systems place a pre-filter before the membrane: usually sediment pre-filter + carbon filterFirst, prevent blockage, then reduce the risk of residual chlorine damaging the membrane.
  3. In front of specific equipment (protecting only a specific machine)
    For example, before a water softener, you need to block mud, sand, and rust; before a UV filter, you need to reduce turbidity (otherwise light won't be able to pass through); before a pressure motor, you need to reduce particle wear—the core logic is "block first, then deal with it."

What does a pre-filter primarily block? In short: it blocks what is "visible" and "smelly."

  • Visible solids: mud, rust, and suspended solids (sediment/particles)
    The most troublesome thing about this type is clogging: clogged filter elements, clogged valves, clogged RO membranes, which ultimately manifests as "the flow rate getting smaller and smaller and the pressure getting increasingly strange".
  • Smell: chlorine smell, unpleasant odor, some organic matter
    Most of the improvement in taste and aroma relies on activated carbon through "adsorption"; but itnoIt is used to "absorb" salt or dissolved inorganic salts (this is the most easily misunderstood point).

Common types of pre-filters and their corresponding "blocking properties" comparison table

Pre-filter type What does it mainly block? Common Specifications/Concepts Most frequently installed location Small pitfalls you need to be aware of
Sediment filter (PP/cotton/pleated) Mud, rust, suspended solids Common sizes are 1–20 µm (the smaller and finer, the easier to plug). The first step before whole-house PoE and RO Too fine a filter isn't necessarily better: when the raw water is turbid, it's prone to pressure drop and rapid flow decrease.
Carbon block (CTO) It can also block chlorine odor, unpleasant smells, and some organic matter; it can also block some particulate matter. Primarily based on "adsorption", often made in block form RO membrane pre-treatment and under-sink water purifier pre-treatment If you care about "efficacy claims", remember to check the certification/testing basis.
GAC (granular activated carbon) Primarily improves taste/odor and some organic matter. Particulate carbon; flow rate and contact time have a significant impact. For the entire apartment or under-sink area (depending on the design) Too much data means insufficient contact time, which can diminish the effectiveness.
Combination: Sediment + Carbon First, block particles, then treat chlorine/odor to protect downstream components (especially RO membranes). The most common approach to RO systems RO system front end The order and frequency of filter replacement should be coordinated; don't replace only one filter.

How to choose a pre-filter? Quickly determine the direction with 3 questions.

What are you asking yourself? Common Answers What prerequisites would you likely need?
What is your water source? Tap water (occasionally contains sediment/rust and has a chlorine taste) most sediment + carbon It's very touching.
What is your water source? Well water/groundwater (high in silt and sand, turbidity, iron/manganese content) First, stabilize the "particle/turbidity" level, then discuss subsequent processing.
Who are you going to protect? RO membrane Key points:Prevents clogging + Reduces residual chlorine risk
Who are you going to protect? Water Softener Key points: Prevent mud, sand, and rust from jamming valves; reduce wear.
Who are you going to protect? UV Key point: Reduce turbidity first to avoid sacrificing disinfection efficiency.
What do you care about most? Traffic sensitive Don't use a very fine µm filter at the beginning, otherwise it will feel like the pain of "a bubble tea straw getting blocked".

How often should you change your pre-filter? Don't just memorize "three months"; pay attention to these 3 signs for a more accurate reading.

The phenomenon you see Common causes What you can do
Reduced flow rate / Slower water output Filter cartridge clogged (particle accumulation) Inspect and replace the sediment; adjust the µm or increase the pre-capacity if necessary.
The pressure difference between the front and rear increases (it's easier to determine this with a pressure gauge). System resistance increases Using pressure difference as a "change indicator" is usually more accurate than using time.
The taste is back. Activated carbon adsorption capacity depleted Replace the carbon filter; also check if the flow rate is too high, causing poor performance.

To add a more practical point:The more unstable the water quality, the higher the usage, the more frequently it needs to be replaced.Pre-filters are consumables; if you don't replace them, you'll often end up "saving a little money but having to pay for major repairs later."


In short

Pre-filterIt's about keeping problems at bay, making backend equipment more durable, stable, and requiring less maintenance; its forte is usually...Sediment and taste/residual chlorine (activated carbon adsorption)If you are looking for an "effective reduction" of a specific contaminant, it is recommended to refer to testing/certification approaches like those of the NSF for a more reliable option.


Want to integrate a pre-filter directly into your water softening/purification system for a stable, easy-to-maintain, and more consumable-efficient solution? You can check out Clack's related products and solutions.

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